The tradition of the 13 Christmas desserts

En Provence, nul ne pourrait concevoir le réveillon de Christmas sans que ne soient servis les 13 desserts. Cette coutume ancienne remonterait probablement à la fin du XIXe siècle, et serait attribuée aux membres du Cremascle, une association marseillaise. On lui connaît toutefois plus d’une origine, mais ce que l’on sait avec certitude, c’est que le vrai symbole de cette tradition représente la Cène, au moment où Jesus était entouré de ses douze apôtres.

Various symbols are also associated with the tradition of the thirteen Christmas desserts, including that of the four mendicant religious orders. It also refers to the ancient custom of breaking the oil pump, a pastry also called gibassié or fougasse d'Aigues, in memory of the bread broken by Christ. According to belief, cutting the oil pump was synonymous with poverty, which persisted for an entire year.

In short, whatever the case, this tradition of the 13 desserts is still observed in Provence on Christmas Eve. Before midnight mass, the 13 desserts are served after a hearty supper, and presented on the same table. All guests are required to taste each of the desserts, which are accompanied by a mulled wine.

The composition of the desserts varies by region, family, city, and canton. However, the list of these thirteen desserts generally consists of the pompe à l'huile, which can sometimes be replaced by the galette au lait flavored with fennel and cumin. Next come the sweets, which include white nougat, black nougat, candied citrons, and quince paste. Dried fruits are also added, such as walnuts, almonds, dried figs, and raisins. Fresh fruit tops it all off with winter pears, apples, oranges, and dates.